In 2008, L’Espalier moved from its Gloucester Street brownstone, cramped and romantic, to a new space adjacent to the Mandarin Oriental hotel on Boylston. A few blocks away, it is a world apart, modern and spacious, the gleaming kitchens outfitted with every convenience. The look is contemporary: starburst lighting, glass walls, subdued taupes and beiges.

Something was inarguably lost — history, antique charm — but much was gained. Four years later, L’Espalier has grown into its new surroundings.

These better reflect the nature of the restaurant itself. Regardless of what appeared on one’s plate, the old space gave the sense that L’Espalier was traditional, possibly even slightly stuffy. Neither is true, as several first-time diners noted with surprise. Service is indeed formal, not missing a detail, tailored to the needs of each table and each individual at it. That person is not drinking wine? Perhaps she would like to try one of the house juice blends. This one can’t stop eating the phenomenal cheddar brioche and pretzel rolls from the bread basket? He will be offered more until he says uncle. Another is allergic to the chocolate in one dessert? An extra, free of the ingredient, appears at the table to compensate. (This exquisite attention can falter on, say, a busy night during graduation season.) But L’Espalier has always had a sense of fun. Witness its weekly Cheese Tuesday event, a three-course dinner and cheese tasting that culminates in a group chorus of a song about cheese. It’s set to the tune of “Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious.”