This year, the Eliot Hotel’s Clio marks its 15th anniversary, celebrating with a spruce-up of the restaurant’s interior and other changes that seem designed to invite a revisit. So here we go.

Clio debuted in 1997, elegant and French, a young chef named Ken Oringer at the helm. The economy was strong, and new restaurants were opening in a quantity some felt Boston might not support. Surprise. The restaurant scene remains robust, dining a primary form of entertainment. Clio keeps ticking. The young chef, now seasoned, has gone on to open other, less-formal restaurants, maintaining a high standard for food while injecting Boston’s dining scene with much-needed fun.

That is dining’s wheelhouse right now, so what of Clio, a mature 15 and still relatively formal? After renovations, the dining room is modernized without looking too different. Threadbare seats have been reupholstered, but the signature leopard-print carpet still lets out its muted roar upon the floor. Half the customers are casually dressed, but on every visit there is at least one man who looks like an undercover Michelin inspector, dining alone in deep communion with his plate. Updates are most pronounced at the bar, which is lighter and more welcoming, with a few small booths. More seating was necessary — bartender Todd Maul is a real draw, with his chapbook of drinks embracing laboratory technology and tiki tradition.